Trip 19 began with a few smaller days, which helped everyone get into the swing of things. We were spending our time surfing uncrowded Max's Left and a few sessions at our small wave secret spots that were completely empty when we showed up, and if I was to have a guess I would say that they still are. The water clarity is always nice out here, but these days were nothing short of spectacular. As the swell started filling in, Max's Left became the pick, until this morning, when we woke to the sound of waves pounding the shoreline and decided it was time to step up and try a slab not too far away. The guys went hard all morning and came back absolutely beaming.
As I am writing this report, we have four of our guests trading 3-4 footers directly in front of my office without a drop of water out of place. This swell is supposed to stick around for a few more days so let's hope we can keep the crew amped and try to tackle a few spots that we haven’t been to—and possibly a few old favourites too.
Benjamin Conn - email@example.com